San Jose Prepared | Crime Reports |



What's in your GoBag?

Shakeout 2008

Earthquake Scenerio & Preparedness


Plan to be on your own for a minimum of 72 hours following a disaster!

Immediately after an earthquake, it is possible there will be no electricity, water,
gas, home phone service, banking services, medical aid, or stores with supplies.
The better prepared you are, the better position you will be in to help your family and neighbors.
There are seven types of basic supplies you should have in the event of a disaster or emergency:
Basic First Aid
Clothing and Bedding
Special Personal Items (medical prescriptions, etc.)
Mini-Survival Kit or “Go-Kit”


Water is the most important life-saving supply you can store!
Storage: Water is safe only if it is tap water that has been properly stored, or if it is storebought,
bottled water that has been properly stored and sealed airtight.
Store two gallons of water per person per day.
Keep at least a three-day supply of water for each person in your household.
Store additional water for your pets and possible visitors.
Store two gallons of purchased distilled water for any individuals with
chronic health problems, including weakened immune systems.

Emergency Supplies

Replace your stored water every six months. You can do it when you reset your clocks at Daylight Savings Time and Standard Time. Use the old supply to water your plants.

Label water containers with the date stored.
Specially sealed, airtight pouches of water may be stored up to five years.

Check the label for an expiration date. These pouches can be purchased where earthquake supplies are sold. Store tap water in clean, food-grade plastic containers. Do not store in
used milk containers, which tend to leak over time.

Place all containers in a cool, dark, easy-to-reach location, secure from
animals. Avoid storing water in garages or attics where it can get too hot.


Water that is properly stored is safe to drink. Only treat your stored water if:
 Labels show the water has been stored longer than six months
 The water has an unusual odor
 The container is leaking
 The seal does not appear to be airtight
 You have any concerns about the water’s safety


Boil your stored water for at least one minute. Let it cool, then drink it or
use it to prepare food. Boiling is the preferred method of purification.



You can use household liquid bleach to kill most bacteria. Use only regular
household liquid bleach. Do not use scented or color-safe bleaches, or
those with added cleaners.

Add a measured ¼ teaspoon or 16 drops of bleach to each gallon of
water. Shake or stir, then let it stand for 30 minutes. A slight chlorine taste
and smell is normal and safe. This formula works for both regular and
concentrated bleach.

After using these methods to purify your water, you can improve the taste by
pouring it back and forth between two clean containers.

Emergency Sources of Non-Potable (Not Drinkable) Water

Water from the water heater, toilet tank, pool or hot tub can be used with soap for
washing down surfaces, cleaning tools and washing your body. Your purified
water is meant to keep you alive, use it only for drinking and food preparation.
If you run out of purified drinking water, you can use the water from your water
heater for drinking after you strain and treat it. To strain it, pour it through a clean
cloth or layers of paper towels. Then treat this water following the directions
given above.


Store at least a three-day supply of non-perishable food. Select foods that:
Need little or no refrigeration or cooking
Are compact and light weight
Do not need to have water added
Are foods you like to eat
Are low in sodium
Have a long shelf-life

Suggested Foods

Canned meats, Fruits, Vegetables, Juices, Milk, Soup

High energy foods such as peanut butter and jelly, crackers, granola bars,
trail mix and nuts.

Comfort foods such as cookies, hard candy, cereal, instant coffee or tea

General Tips

Most emergency food should be stored in a cool, dark and dry place at 40o
to 60º F.

Even if the electricity goes out, the food in your refrigerator will stay cold
for 24 hours if the door is kept closed. Perishable food in the refrigerator
should be eaten first. Eat food from the freezer next. When that is gone,
eat the non-perishable food in the cupboard.

Use a permanent marking pen to write the purchase date on each

Rotate your supplies every 6 to 12 months to ensure freshness.


Store your kit in an outside storage shed if possible.

Don’t store food near gasoline, oil or other petroleum products because
smells can be absorbed into the food. Food may also absorb odors from
soap and cleaning supplies.

Store food in airtight, sealed plastic or metal containers. Take precautions
to keep out insects and rodents.

First Aid Supplies

Assemble a complete first aid kit for your home and a smaller one for each car.
Emergency first aid information can be found in the “customer guide” section of
the telephone book White Pages.
Items in your home’s first aid kit should include:
 Sterile adhesive bandages  Sterile saline to wash burns
 Sterile gauze pads (6+)  Magnifier
 Triangular bandages (3)  Waterless hand cleaner
 Sterile rolled bandages (6 rolls)  Activated charcoal
 Hypoallergenic adhesive tape  Antiseptic
 Scissors and tweezers  Hydrogen peroxide
 Instant hot and cold packs  Latex gloves (2 pairs)
 Ace bandage  Sunscreen
 Needle  First aid manual
 Moistened towelettes  Prescription medication
 Thermometer  Assortment of safety pins

If you or someone in your family requires special medication, be sure to have a
14-day supply or at least an empty medication container with the prescription
label on hand. You can also make a photocopy of your prescriptions before you
have them filled; keep these in your wallet for easy reference.

In addition, recommend keeping a supply of the followings:
 Non-prescription drugs  Antacid for upset stomach
 Aspirin or other pain reliever  Laxative
 Vitamins  Anti-diarrhea medication
 Syrup of Ipecac to induce vomiting when instructed by the Poison Control Center 1(800)876-4766

Tools and Supplies

Having the right tools and supplies can be essential in a major emergency.
Some suggestions include:
 Battery operated radio with extra batteries
 Mess kit or paper cups, plates, plastic utensils
 Flashlight with extra batteries  Multi-purpose knife
 Chemical light sticks  Non-electric can opener
 Fire extinguisher (small A-B-C type)
 Portable toilet or 5 gallon bucket with plastic liner bags
 Shutoff tools for gas and water  Cooking utensils
 Shovel  Toilet paper
 Pliers  Garbage bags
 Signal flare  Whistle
 Tent  Map of local area
 Camp stove and fuel  Money (small bills and coins)
 Waterproof matches  San Jose Prepared! manual
 Needle and thread  Proof of current residency
 Crowbar  Soap
 Rope  Duct tape
 Plastic sheeting  Plastic storage container and plastic bags

Clothing and Bedding

Include at least one complete change of clothing and footwear per person. In
addition, pack the following items:
 Sturdy shoes or work boots  Hat or cap
 Heavy work gloves  Long pants
 Rain gear  Long-sleeve shirt
 Mask and eye protection  Blankets and sleeping bags

Important Personal Items

Remember family members with special needs, such as infants, the elderly or disabled persons.
 Prescription drugs (e.g., heart, high blood pressure, diabetes)
 Dental needs, dentures
 Contact lenses, supplies
 Extra eye glasses or prescription
 Extra cane
 Hearing aid batteries
 Personal hygiene, sanitary supplies
 Comfort items (e.g., games, toys, stuffed animals, blankets)
 Powdered milk, formula
 Toys, comfort items, blankets
 Special foods
It’s important to remember your pets, too.
 Always keep a collar and ID tag on all your pets.
 If you evacuate with your dog, bring a leash.
 Store a one week supply of animal food, water, dishes, kitty litter and box.
 Have a carrier large enough to comfortably confine your cat or dog.
 Keep a strong rope or chain handy and a large screw-in device to restrain your dog in case fences are down.

The Office of Emergency Services has an “Emergency Pet Preparedness” brochure available for people who want more information 408-277-4595. Mini-Survival Kits for Car and Work You may not be at home when a disaster strikes. Keep a small emergency pack in your car and at your workplace to help you survive until you can make your
way home. Some of the supplies you may want to include are:
 Flat, sturdy and comfortable shoes
 Small first aid kit and manual
 Toilet paper, zipper bags
 Fire extinguisher (A-B-C type)
 Flashlight, extra batteries
 AM radio, extra batteries
 Heavy gloves
 Small tool kit
 Money (small bills and coins)
 Mylar blanket
 Local maps

Remember to keep your gas tank at least ½ full because gas station pumps may not be working.


Here is what I personally use. Click on each Go Bag style to read more about whats inside:

What’s in my Disaster Back Pack Style Go Bag?

My Personal Go Bag This Backpack Go Bag should contain items for 1 person facing immediate evacuation & personal survival for 72 hours.

What’s in my Disaster Back Pack Style C.E.R.T. Rescue Go Bag?

CERT Backpack This C.E.R.T. Go Bag should contain items for 1 or 2 persons facing incident management, Personal Safety, and Search & Rescue.

What’s in my 2 person 3 Day Rolling Garbage Can Style Home & Family Disaster Kit?

2 Person 3 day kit This kit should contain items for survival, safety & shelter for two persons for 72 hours and facing evacuation.

What’s in my Shed Style Disaster Community Kit?

Inside front community kit Inside back community kit Community Style kit This kit should contain items for Safety, Shelter, Triage, Damage Assessment and Recovery for a large group of people.

Products I Use

"I personally use this alarm in my home... It works..It really does. The alarm gives me a heads up 20 seconds prior to an earthquake."


Provides early warning by detecting an earthquake's sound wave before the earthquake's destructive shear wave strikes your area.

Fully adjustable sensitivity setting.

Automatically resets and shuts off alarm when earthquake stops.

Mounts easily to wall. No screws, nails or tools required.

Operates off a 9-volt battery.





The Ham Radio I prefer to use...KJ6ALS

The TH-F6A is a 144/220/440 MHz transceiver/receiver with dual-channel RX capability in a compact and powerful design. The first Tri-Band HT with 3 bands you can operate EVERY DAY! The TH-F6A boasts a list of unique features the competition is still scratching their heads over.



Emergency Lighting installed in my home. When the power goes out, The back up lights come on, I am never left in the dark.


Durofix Emergency Standby Plug-in High-Efficiency LED Lights (2-Pack) $39.99

Installed two sets of these, One light in each Bedroom & each Bathroom .

Be ready when a power failure occurs!
As soon as the power cuts out this Emergency Light will automatically power on its 24 powerful LEDs (600 Candlepower) and stay on continuously as long as 8-Hours. Plugs into any standard outlet, Unit have a Three-mode switch: All LEDs On, Half LEDs On, Power Off, Charging Time: 8-12 hours Weight: 185g, Input Voltage: 120V AC

  • Turns On Immediately During Power Failure
  • Convenient plug-in design without an additional adapter
  • Slim Profile Uses 24 LEDs and Built-In Powerful Li-ion 3.6V Battery
  • Up to 8-Hours of Continuous Use
  • Two Year Limited Warranty

litewing backInstalled one of these for the Front room. Positioned to light the frontroom & dowm the Hallway Paid about $25 at Harbor Freight.

Make sure your emergency exits are well-lit during a power outage. This hallway emergency light is the perfect way for your business, shop or home to be ready for the next power outage. Hang this emergency light on a wall, and adjust the two lamps for optimum area coverage. Then just plug it in to keep it recharged and ready. When it senses that power has been cut, it automatically turns on one or two lights (your choice).

  • 6-volt battery provides illumination for up to 4 hours
  • 1 lamp illuminates for 4 hours, 2 lamps light for 2 hours
  • Recharges automatically when power returns
  • Dual 3.6-watt lamps are adjustable to light hallways and dark corners
  • LED recharge indicator, front-mounted test button

One for Ethanolback up 2 my back up One for Propane, Natural gas or Gasoline Tri-Fuel Gererator.jpg Contected to house bytransfer switch

Gasoline is not a fuel that professionals ever choose to use on backup generators. Hospitals and other large facilities "never" install a gasoline back-up generator. They always use natural gas or diesel. Gasoline has a very limited shelf life and will actually cause engine failure. Worst of all when power outages occur due to ice storms, hurricanes, tornadoes, earthquakes and all other disasters, the first commodity to be hoarded is gasoline.

Want to know more about my Tri Fuel Generator set up?

Do You Want to find out about making your own ethanol fuel ? Click the "Generator" Tab at the top of the page.


Distilling Water



if You do not own a Still, follow the diagram below to create one

First dig a small whole and enclose the whole on three sides with either concreate blocks or a mud retaining wall for insulation and set three blocks/Rocks around the whole to hold the heated drum above a fire.

Now arange the drums in place add the sheet metal, just lean it in till it locks in place, curve it a bit so it will retain the steam more giving it time to form droplets and cool and run down the sheet metal into the catch drum. The cold catch drum is where the drinkable water is and the hot drum is where you add the river water to be distilled.

iamdenteddisk (author) from another site says:
"I was a redcross volunteer during katrina, my group was there eger to go the day before the storm yet was also retained a full week and legally bound not to go on our own. when we actualy did get there I seen alot of the things that where most needed and could have provided if not for the legal restriction. So now I want to post this device for general knowlage, it is simple yet will in eight hours make enough water for a group of 30 for drinking, meals and bathing as well as the fact the fire is used and coals can be pulled out next to this setup to build a cooking area. The distilled water made by this system may get some carbon black or ash in it but both are sterile and also safe for consumption In emergency situations people sometime will resort to natural water which can in most instances be risky/dangerous and if possible be avoided. Something this simple could save lives in parts of the world where clean safe water is unatainable and any one who is involved in volunteer, missionary work or is a survivalist should know about this simple device."


Storing Water


I have a two 55 gallon barrels of water plus 5 cases of bottled water but as you probably know human being can survive an average of three days without the intake of water. A typical person will lose 2-3 liters of water per day under ordinary conditions, and more in hot, dry, or cold weather. So after water in the storage is gone you will need to use some special water treatments to survive. Remember: after any disaster water becomes the most important factor of your survival.



This tank holds about 250 gallons of water and is hooked up to the gutter system on the roof for a renewable water source. (second photo) keeps it under cover and keeps others out. there is a trick you'll have to know to access the water spicket.


Safety Tip
Treat all water of uncertain quality before using it for drinking, food washing or preparation, washing dishes, brushing teeth, or making ice. In addition to having a bad odor and taste, contaminated water can contain microorganisms (germs) that cause diseases such as dysentery, cholera, typhoid, and hepatitis.

After All Water in Your storage is Gone

These instructions are for treating water of uncertain quality in an emergency situation, when no other reliable clean water source is available, or you have used all of your stored water.

How To Treat Water
There are many ways to treat water. None is perfect. Often the best solution is a combination of methods.
Before treating, let any suspended particles settle to the bottom or strain them through coffee filters or layers of clean cloth.
Make sure you have the necessary materials in your disaster supplies kit for the chosen water treatment method.
There are three water treatment methods:
• Boiling
• Chlorination
• Distillation

Boiling is the safest method of treating water. In a large pot or kettle, bring water to a rolling boil for 1 full minute, keeping in mind that some water will evaporate. Let the water cool before drinking. Boiled water will taste better if you put oxygen back into it by pouring the water back and forth between two clean containers. This also will improve the taste of stored water.

You can use household liquid bleach to kill microorganisms. Use only regular household liquid bleach that contains 5.25 to 6.0 percent sodium hypochlorite. Do not use scented bleaches, color safe bleaches, or bleaches with added cleaners. Because the potency of bleach diminishes with time, use bleach from a newly opened or unopened bottle.
Add 16 drops (1/8 teaspoon) of bleach per gallon of water, stir, and let stand for 30 minutes. The water should have a slight bleach odor. If it doesn’t, then repeat the dosage and let stand another 15 minutes. If it still does not smell of chlorine, discard it and find another source of water. Other chemicals, such as iodine or water treatment products sold in camping or surplus stores that do not contain 5.25 to 6.0 percent sodium hypochlorite as the only active ingredient, are not recommended and should not be used.

While the two methods described above will kill most microbes in water, distillation will remove microbes (germs) that resist these methods, as well as heavy metals, salts, and most other chemicals.
Distillation involves boiling water and then collecting only the vapor that condenses. The condensed vapor will not include salt or most other impurities. To distill, fill a pot halfway with water. Tie a cup to the handle on the pot’s lid so that the cup will hang right-side-up when the lid is upside-down (make sure the cup is not dangling into the water) and boil the water for 20 minutes. The water that drips from the lid into the cup is distilled

Self Defense

Get educated about firearms before you try to use one,

Take training classes after you buy one,

Be comfortable with and know your weapon. when using one.

Go to the range and practice, practice, practice

Besure to use and know the five fundamentals of gun safety below.


The FiveFundamentals of Gun Saftey

A. Always Treat A Firearm As If It Is Loaded
Every single time that you handle a firearm, you must treat it as if it is loaded - even if you "know" it is unloaded. Always take on the mindset that your gun is always loaded. If you do this, you will treat the gun with the respect and reverence that it deserves. History has shown that many people are shot every year with "unloaded" handguns.

Further, you should never hand someone a loaded gun. The recipient may not have had any gun safety training. If you give a gun to the average person, his response is all too predictable; he will put his finger on the trigger. What do you think will be the first thing that he will say? He'll say without hesitating, "I didn't know it was loaded!" Surely, he had enough time to check if it was loaded but he didn't. He's an obvious amateur gun-handler.

In this situation, the gun should be opened such that a visual look at the action will clearly show that it is unloaded. When the recipient has verified that the gun is unloaded, he should then take possession of the gun.

B. Always Keep The Firearm Pointed In A Safe Direction
If the muzzle of the gun is always pointed in a safe direction, there is no way that anyone or anything can be shot if the gun was fired. Another way of stating this safety rule is to "Never Point It At Something That You Don't Want Destroyed."

A safe direction is based upon where you are and who is around you. Sometimes the correct answer for a given scenario may be "up" and on others the correct answer may be "down."

C. Always Keep Your Finger Off The Trigger Until Ready To Shoot
The trigger finger should always be kept on the frame of the handgun - not in the trigger guard. It only takes a split-second to move your finger to the trigger when needed. If you still watch TV, you will undoubtedly see this rule violated incessantly. The reason for this rule is very simple. It helps to eliminate the possibility of a gun-handler from accidentally shooting a firearm.

There is no justifiable excuse for accidentally shooting someone. Besides, what friend of yours would respond to your apology favorably. The only valid justification for shooting someone is that you meant to do so. Keep in mind that if you do intentionally shoot someone, you better have a good reason that falls within the confines of the law.

D. Always Keep Your Firearm Unloaded Until It Is Ready For Use
A gun that is not being actively used should be unloaded. This rule has the potential for confusing many students. Sometimes, a student will ask me how he expects to protect himself with an unloaded gun. The answer is very clear: If a gun is being used for personal protection, it should be loaded. An unloaded gun is of no practical use when an intruder is climbing through your bedroom window at 2:00 a.m. in the morning.

With respect to guns being used for personal protection, the handgun owner must responsibly balance accessibility with keeping the gun away from unauthorized users - children.

E. Always Be Sure Of Your Target and What Is Beyond It
Never shoot your handgun at a target until you have verified that it is a valid target. Once a gun is fired, you can't recall the bullet. Thus, if you fire upon an improper target you will have to live with the consequences. Also, you need to know what is beyond your target because if you haven't been to the range in a while, you might miss. If you fire your gun and miss, you are criminally and civilly liable for wherever that bullet lands. So, don't "take any shots in the dark" and don't miss.

these rules and more infor including a video were found on another

wesite at



front site

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After your first self defense firearms training course at Front Sight you will leave with self defense firearms training skills that surpass 99% of the gun owning population!

Consider This

Electromagnetic Pulse

I found this “tips to consider list” on

An EMP will kill your alternator, and your truck will stop running as soon as the battery goes dead.

In fact, if it has some “on board” computer somewhere that would cause a no start before you ever left the driveway.

As someone who works on cars for a living, let me give you all in on some EMP info.

Here is a car that is EMP proof:

1970 VW Beatle. It sports a non-electric carburetor, point’s ignition, mechanical fuel pump, and a generator instead of an alternator.

Here is another EMP proof transporter: A 1991 Tomos  moped Points ignition magneto power to the coil and lights.

Then there are the NON-EMP proof cars.

1985 jeep cherokee. At first glance, it looks ok, mechanical fuel pump, carburetor, simplistic. BUT it’s got an electronic carburetor, o2 sensor, and alternator….NO GO.

1995 ford truck. Its got a power stroke diesel, so its ok right? Nope. it has fuel management systems and an alt. It’s a No Go.

To get a good EMP proof car, truck or bike, look to the distant past. 1900 to 197? stay away from electronic ignition, electric fuel pumps, alternators, and any sort of fuel management.

Or when the day comes, and apparently some at NASA say its coming your car, truck or bike will not run, or only run you down the road into trouble and leave you stranded with a dead battery.